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Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Things I learned while surfing in Bali....

1. If you want to catch a wave you should sit next to a local in the lineup, anywhere else is probably useless

2. Breaks named lacerations, impossibles and racetracks are named that for good reason

3. Surfing over shallow reef brings a whole new element to the game

4. When your boat driver hands you a shot of Arak you don't say no

5. When a local points at the horizon and whistles you should immediately paddle that way. Ignore the fact that you see nothing coming. You may still take the set to your dome

6. Falling off the face of a set wave CAN and WILL give you whiplash

7. Reef booties may look lame but picking reef shards out of your feet is more lame

8. If you think you have this "surfing thing down"...go to Bali...chances are...you don't

9. Befriend your local Warung owner, buy a Bintang and eat whatever they make for you. Leave your life savings in a basket by their store and it will be there when you get out of the water...no joke

10. Walking down 600 steps to get to Nyang Nyang is definitely worth it

11. The beaches really are beautiful in Bali....





12. On your "off" day you should visit Ubud, ride bikes through the rice paddies & visit the monkey forest





crazy monkeys.....






13. Your a.m. surf report is obtained from the back of your motorbike

14. A full moon (Purnama) has a lot of meaning in Bali. It seemed fitting that this moon ended our stay in Bali